Joel Harrington Knocking Out Home Runs At Bolsa (excerpt)

October 9, 2015

 

This week we checked in at Bolsa to visit with the new executive chef Joel Harrington who just returned from a three year gig as kitchen director at Red Rooster in New York. You may recall Harrington from his Dallas past where he served as chef de cuisine at Fearing’s, and exec chef at Stephan Pyles and Charlie Palmer’s. Bringing Harrington back from New York was a major coup for Bolsa as the chef has some major skills as evidenced by his new menu at the Oak Cliff restaurant.  

 

Bringing Harrington back to Dallas was actually a series of happenstance. Bolsa owner Chris Zielke was pursuing other chefs for the position vacated by the previous exec Andrew Bell when he caught a rumor that Harrington was looking at returning back to Dallas where his two children reside. Once he confirmed that Harrington might consider the Bolsa position, Zielke was on a flight to New York to discuss the possibilities with the chef. The effort paid off, and the new menu reflects the true talent of Harrington. The degree of complexity of the dishes we found this week on the menu astounded us.

 

               Chicken Liver Macaron

 

                Charcuterie and Cheese

 

 

Also new to Bolsa is the use of A Bar N Ranch beef. A Bar N is a super unique cross breed of Wagyu and Angus raised in Texas with a superiority beyond prime and used by very few restaurants such as Fearing’s and Hibiscus. To pair with the high end beef now used at Bolsa, Harrington has brought in a Texas black garlic called Texas Black Gold. This may not sound particularly exciting, but knowing the richly flavored black garlic is not typically grown in Texas but instead Korea, this is a fantastic find for the restaurant that prefers everything local. This garlic currently cannot be found on any menu in Dallas.

 

 

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